|
Cloisters LTD
see the full text here Why not choose a Cloisters kitchen and save up to 50% off the list price of other high street studio retailers like John Lewis. Our quality rigid units, all of which have been specifically factory built to order, are second to none in quality and are all individually tailored to your exact design. The only limitation is you imagination. Our Flat pack range is without question the best in the market today with unrivalled value for money. Whatever the budget, we have a wide range of styles that guarantee the finest quality at the lowest UK prices for kitchens of this excellence. Our expert designers even provide you with a FREE kitchen design and quotation that will allow you to create your ideal kitchen. With Cloisters Design you can transform your room into the kitchen of your dreams at an affordable price. What makes our kitchens unique is the combination of leading design, professional designers imagination and Cloisters Design's unique sense of individuality. Our large range of styles mean that we have a kitchen to suit every taste, whether you are looking for the comfort of a traditional kitchen or the sleekness of modern innovation. With such a range of choice available our designers ensure that any of our fitted kitchens can be customised to your needs. With Cloisters Design we can guarantee you'll be receiving the best in design, cost, quality and customer satisfaction. All of our units are factory built to the highest quality, offering the full range of designs from Shaker style to the latest synthetic or the more traditional hardwood finishes. Our array of storage options and accessories means that planning your unique kitchen is an easy, pleasurable experience. With all these features being delivered direct to your door you will find our kitchens to be both beautiful and unsurpassable value for money. Designing your new kitchen will usually require new appliances, sinks and worktops; all of which can be found on our sister sites at Kitchens123.co.uk Our many years of experience( est. 1949) in interior design ensure that not only will you save a considerable amount of money, but also that the design and construction of your high quality kitchen will be quick and hassle free. Kitchen Design
Here at Cloisters Design we feel that one of the most important factors in guaranteeing customer satisfaction is to actually involve you, the customer, in the design aspect of the kitchen construction. After all what better way to design your ideal kitchen than to have you personally tell us what you're looking for in a kitchen. To this end we aim to keep the customer fully informed throughout the process. Who knows your desires and needs better than you? In order to maximise your satisfaction with our designs we want the opportunity to provide you with a FREE design and for one of our professional designers to guide you throughout the whole process. All you need to do is give us a call to discuses your project and one of our designers will be more than happy to arrange an initial appointment at our showroom in Hertfordshire. Kitchen Design - Tips and Hints
When you come to measure the area for redesigning, please ensure that you note the exact shape of the walls. If there is an inwards corner in the room it will affect the possible design of the worktop and the arrangement of the wall-cupboards or other storage options. Take care to note the service points for water, electricity and gas, as this will influence the placement of the main working areas and if not incorporated into the design will require re-plumbing and re-wiring. The longest unit will consist of the drainer, sink, and possibly the dishwasher, and the plan will need to be arranged around this so it is best to focus on this first. If you have a large family or store a lot of refrigerated food then it is worth considering a big fridge or freezer at the end of your worktop to maximise easy access and storage. Kitchen Design - Layout
In a kitchen design the main elements of the kitchen, the sink, hob and food preparation area, should all be in close proximity and the fridge or freezer should be placed near the kitchen entrance for ease of use. All of this will help determine where the basic equipment (hob, fridge, sink and microwave) are positioned and where the service points mentioned above will be placed. Remember to bear in mind the existing service points when designing the kitchen plan, it is far simpler to work from existing points rather re-wire and re-plump the kitchen infrastructure. Bear in mind that the closer the basic equipment is, the less walking is required in the use of them, making the kitchen easier to cook in. To minimise the need for artificial light in the kitchen it is advisable to locate the sink against an outside wall under a window; this provides a source of natural light for one of the busiest areas of a kitchen as well as making the plumbing less complicated. Kitchen Design - The Basics
There are two basic options that will fundamentally influence the entire design of the kitchen; fitted or freestanding units? The benefit of fitted units is that they maximise the space available, using and hiding difficult corners, turning them into storage spaces. Fitted units also add to the value of a house, but cannot be removed if you move property. Available in flat pack, rigid or custom built units to suit your budget and requirements; a fitted unit kitchen adds permanent elegance to a home. Alternatively a non-fitted or freestanding kitchen provides flexibility and can be tailored to create an individual look that suits you, using a combination of furniture to achieve your own atmosphere. When you move, you can just take the furniture with you. However, careful selection and design are important in creating a non-fitted kitchen with as much space and storage as the fitted unit kitchen. The fitted kitchen will be the basis for the rest of this guide, but the design tips and hints will in many cases work just as well in the non-fitted kitchen. Whichever style of kitchen chosen careful planning is important in creating a kitchen that fulfils all your needs and aesthetic desires. The kitchen is definitely the focal point of a home and we feel a good kitchen should reflect the needs of the customer. You should consider how many people will be using the kitchen, the amount of seating that you wish for, how much storage for food and cutlery is needed; all this needs to be taken into consideration when planning the different areas of the kitchen. As seating will comprise a large area of the kitchen for a large family, or can be built into different areas for a smaller room, it is a good idea to establish a seating area first and work the rest of the design around it. The shape of for your kitchen.
Shape is obviously one of the most crucial factors in deciding which kitchen design to choose as it will limit the combination of ways in which the kitchen can be arranged, making it easier to choose that final design. Bear in mind when choosing a kitchen shape the efficiency hints previously given regarding the placement of the major units and appliances such as the fridge, as this may help you choose the kitchen shape that will best compliment your other design choices. Open plan kitchen
Remember earlier when we said that the kitchen is the focal point of a home? Well, with this option it is literally true; the kitchen becomes one of the main living spaces in the house. Despite the fact that open plan kitchens are often more expensive, as people choose to spend more on an area in constant use used as a communal area, they also allow for bigger kitchens for those that need it. U-shaped kitchen
This design shape will provide one of the smaller floor spaces of the various options, but it does provide a lot of work space and storage in the units lining the wall; this, however, can also cause the room to feel slightly enclosed. If placed in a room larger than the kitchen area desired, then the arm of the U shape not in contact with a wall can be used as a small dining area. L-shaped kitchen
The shape of the L-shaped kitchen means that the worktop plays a prominent role in the room, providing a large working space above and storage potential underneath. Due to the shape of the kitchen it will provide natural seating areas at the corner, which can serve as a handy dining area. The distance between the main working areas will also be minimised in this shape but the space under the worktop in the corner can also cause design problems. Galley shaped kitchen
The predominant feature of the galley kitchen design is that all the major components of the kitchen such as sink, drainer and hob are placed next to each other (preferably with a worktop between the sink and hob). While this minimises walking distance when cooking, making this design very efficient, it also limits the amount of storage space available underneath the worktop. One way to avoid this problem would be to install a large cupboard or refrigerator, depending on the type of storage required, in one end of the galley. Two-Way Galley kitchen
A two-way galley kitchen design eliminates the major flaw of the galley kitchen, the lack of storage space. The two-way galley offers much more storage below the worktop and the extra space allows for a generally better designed layout than the single galley. Unlike the single galley, where the cupboards are often placed either end of the units, the two-galley design offers improved efficiency by allowing the cupboards to be located behind you when you're cooking, meaning less walking to and fro. Due to the shape of the two-galley design the layout of the kitchen tends to be more compact, and it is vital in creating a workable environment that you ensure the two galleys have enough space between them; no one wants a kitchen in which to open the fridge you must back against the worktop behind you. If the size of the room does not allow this space between the galleys it is better to consider another design shape. Utility Rooms
An option for those with larger houses or large families, the utility room provides a space removed from the main kitchen. This has the benefit of creating the space in which to locate washing machines, tumble dryer and possibly even the freezer, without cluttering up the main kitchen. The relatively cheap price of creating a utility room means that for a minimum cost you can have a cloakroom/laundry area whose mess will not spill over into your hygienic kitchen. Storage
Having measured the dimensions of your kitchen and decided on the shape that will best suit your needs, the next step in the design process is to consider the various storage options (bearing in mind the constraints of the kitchen shape chosen). Above the Worktop storage
Above the worktop storage gives you many options for the way in which you chose to store items, because the items you store there will tend to be lighter than those beneath the worktop; this allows not only for storage but also creative and attractive displays. Ingredients such as pasta, sugar and rice can be stored in jars that complement your kitchen style and kept on shelves. It is advisable to keep plates in a plate rack as not only will this look attractive but also prevent the plates from the chipping that keeping them on top of each other is prone to cause. You can hang cups, mugs and jars from pegs on open shelves if you want to create a more traditional country affect in your kitchen. Utensils that are used everyday and need to be easily accessed can be hung from a rail near the main worktop. From this rail you could also hang vegetables such as onions and garlic to emphasis that country feel. To prevent the build up of dust and grease on items on open display it is a good idea to limit these to items in daily use. Things left on open display but not regularly washed and cleaned tend to collect all the dirt from a kitchen. One way to avoid this is to display items behind a glass cupboard door. This opens up options for you to further customise your kitchens appearance, as you can choose from a range of door materials ranging from glass, frosted glass, laminate, stainless steel and wood. It is best to create a balance between the different types of storage options to prevent a kitchen from appearing too cluttered or clinical. Below the Worktop storage
Once the positioning of the main units has been decided on, the next step is the positioning of the cupboards. Storage below the worktop is ideal for heavy items which would be impractical kept above the worktop. When choosing how many cupboards you wish to install remember that instead of meeting your current storage needs you should leave room for further expansion, a kitchen is always growing as you buy more cooking pots and accessories. Cutlery is generally stored below the worktop in drawers and these should be located near the sink or washing up machine for added convenience. Knives can be stored on the worktop in a separate knife-block without making the kitchen appear cluttered, or alternatively they can be stored in a magnetic knife holder attached to the wall, giving the kitchen a more modern look. Bottles of wine that are not being kept chilled in the fridge can be kept beneath the worktop, although it is best to buy a wine rack; not only because it adds extra class to a kitchen but also because if stored in a cupboard bottles at the back cannot be seen. Also vegetables not kept in the fridge can be stored below the worktop, somewhere dry and away from the heat of an oven or hob; keeping them in a basket will ensure that they stay dry and also add a country flavour to the kitchen. Larders
Like the utility room discussed earlier, a larder can be a useful addition to a kitchen, it can save on the cost of kitchen units by maximising storage in one area. In order to be more convenient the larder must be easily accessible from the preparation area. Storage Hints and Tips
In small or narrow kitchens you can create more space by making the wall-cupboards taller rather than deeper. This creates a wider space in the kitchen and can give even small kitchens a roomy feel to them. A dresser is a great combination between display and concealed storage all in one. Boilers are unattractive additions to a kitchen, which can be hidden by something as simple as a spice rack or notice board, this hides the ugly necessity of the boiler while creating either an attractive way of displaying your spices or a practical feature in a busy home. A large freestanding cupboard can be used to break up the potential monotony of alternating cupboards and worktops. A large cupboard undivided by a worktop provides more space than a normal cupboard and so can be used to store both crockery and items such as jars and canned food. For an efficient kitchen, store cutlery, crockery and cooking implements near to where they are most often used. A particularly high ceiling can be taken advantage of by using it to hang a rack to store pans and similar items to provide that often needed extra storage space. Try to position the main bin in the kitchen in a place that is central but ideally integrated below a worktop to keep it out of the way and make the kitchen look tidier. In a drawer storing several types of utensil, or any other item, consider investing in a dividing tray to keep the items separate and easy to locate. One of the features of the L and U-shaped kitchens are the corners in the cupboards; to take full advantage of this potential storage space pick a kitchen design that allows for corner storage. Items that are not used very often should be stored on the higher shelves in a cupboard, freeing up the easier to reach space below them for items used everyday. Ambiance & Style
The next step in the design process is where you can really choose the style and appearance for your new kitchen, from one of our quality finishes. The cabinet doors of a kitchen are its most expressive feature, and when choosing the type of finish for them follow your own sense of style to create a kitchen that will reflect you, something to enjoy looking at for years to come. Most modern cabinets are structured from chipboard so the choice of finish will not affect the overall durability of the units but bear in mind the finish on the cabinet doors should ideally be low maintenance and durable. The choices of material for cabinet doors are: Laminate
Laminate cupboard doors have an advantage over many other materials because of the huge range of colours, textures and shines or polishes in which they are available. This wide range of choice allows you to really pick an individualistic style, be it delicate creamy colours in a matt finish, or something more continental with bold colours and shining finishes. Remember that the style of the handles and finishes should offset the style you have so far developed in the rest of the kitchen design. Laminate is an excellent choice for those looking for a low maintenance finish, as it requires only the occasional wipe to clean it. While laminate is not a good long term decision when it comes to worktop where it is easily damaged, because cabinet doors receive much less wear and tear laminate will continue to look as good as new for years. Wood
While like laminate in that it can be painted, colour washed, waxed or glossed into many different colour finishes, wood differs in that it can be affected by outside temperatures and humidity, and also by those caused within a kitchen. However, while this may affect solid wooden cabinet doors, those with a wooden veneer suffer from these atmospheric conditions much less. A wood veneer also has the advantage that it is both cheaper and gives a kitchen a more unified look, as a piece of wood is cut thinly and used to cover all the doors, rather than use a separate piece for each door. Other Materials
While wood and laminate are the most common materials used for cabinet doors there are other possibilities. One of these is stainless steel, although this is more usually used for worktops and appliances. Stainless steel creates a very clean and professional atmosphere in the kitchen and is particularly easy to keep clean and it is extremely durable. If deciding to expand your choice of stainless steel from the worktops to the cupboards as well, be careful that the look of the kitchen does not change from clean and professional into sterile and clinical; this can be countered by using a warm colour on the walls or combining it with a wooden finish to other areas of the kitchen. This can be a useful tip in other circumstances as the use of just one material can look dull in a larger kitchen. Try using glass doors for displaying items, or frosted glass if wanting to break up the monotony without having the cupboard contents visible. Frosted glass looks particularly elegant in a modern looking kitchen. The choice of colour and material used on the walls goes a long way to creating the overall atmosphere of a kitchen. The most commonly used materials for the walls are paints, wallpaper and tiles. Paint is by far the cheapest and most easily applied of the three choices and the huge range of colours available allows you to create a truly unique look to your kitchen. Wallpaper is slightly more expensive, but with a range of finishes and patterns it can add that something extra to the look of a kitchen. Whether choosing paint or wallpaper always ensure that you pick one designed for use in the kitchen as these are more resilient to humidity and temperature change as well as bearing up better when cleaned. Tiles are often used as a backsplash behind a hob or worktop to avoid any spillages or residue damaging the walls. Tiles come in a range of colours and sizes, as well as prices; when designing the kitchen decide on a shape, size and colour and measure how many will be needed to cover the area needed, in this way you can predict the cost. Whatever material chosen make sure the colours create the kitchen you desire. Choosing a wall colour similar or the same as that of the worktops and cabinets can result in a kitchen that is visually very dull! Allow your imagination to run wild, make a bold statement with the kitchen that you can model the rest of the house around; wall colour can always be quite easily changed in the future if you change your mind. More Kitchen Design Tips
Tiles: ensure you use a grout that is suited to the kitchen, resistant to dirt, water and heat (such as epoxy grout or similar). Worktops: in the same way that you can use different materials to break up the monotony of cabinets and cupboards, consider using different materials to create more interesting worktops. Lighting: to make the most of natural lighting try using bright colours in the kitchen. Use strip lighting installed above the worktop for a constant supply of light exactly where you need it most. Try to use halogen bulbs for clean day light effect, these lights do not colour cast the room. Pilasters & legs are another feature that can be added to a kitchen to give it unique look. You can set the pilasters between as many or as few units as desired. The different types from which to choose are, In-line, Breakfront and End-return; each suited to differing uses and looks. The Different Kitchen Worktop Options
Stainless Steel kitchen worktops
Although stainless steel kitchen worktops have traditionally been used in the industrial and commercial sectors because of the high durability of the material and the ease with which it can be kept hygienic, a stainless steel worktop is also ideally suited for the domestic kitchen. The stainless steel worktop can also be complimented by integrated sinks, waterfall edges and splash backs; all of which are easy to clean and give a smear free finish. Granite Kitchen worktops
Granite is one of the oldest materials available, adding both style and a sense of the traditional to a kitchen. Granite has been used in building for centuries, and with good reason, providing an extremely tough work surface that is waterproof, heat resistant and stain resistant. Cleaning a granite worktop couldn't be easier; all you need to do to clean any spillages is to wipe with a damp cloth. Acidic juices can stain a granite worktop so care is needed when preparing fruit for cooking. To make it even easier though, granite can be sealed in order to make it even less porous; this does, however, need to be reapplied every four months or so after cleaning with a neutral detergent. Because granite can be formed into any shape and is available in a large range of colours you can always be guaranteed a worktop that adds something different to your kitchen. Corian Kitchen worktops
Produced by Dupont, corian is a durable and sturdy man made material created from acrylic resin blended with a natural mineral. Able to be shaped to fit any design, if fitted by a specialist, it will have a continuous finish that can include sinks moulded into the surface of the worktop. The worktop is covered by a 10 year warranty from the producer, making this easy to maintain worktop an intelligent long term investment. Solid Wooden Tops
Wooden tops have recently become very affordable and you can now buy blanks which can be fitted and then oiled on site. They come in many different types of wood such as Beech, Oak, Maple, Cherry, Iroko & Walnut. The wooden tops also come in a range of sizes & thickness normally 28mm or 38mm. If fitted correctly & maintained regularly we believe wooden tops to be the best choice for the designer kitchen. These work well in traditional kitchens, contemporary kitchens or even high gloss kitchens. Quartz Tops
With its cool, fresh look and feel, combined with its unique composition and unusual clarity and consistency of colour, Quartz adds a touch of luxury and sophistication to any kitchen or bathroom environment. What is Quartz?
Manufactured by Dupont Zodiaq® Quartz is an increasingly popular, modern and sophisticated solid surface material designed for today's kitchens and bathrooms. Quartz Worktops have a truly unique solid surface consisting of 93% natural quartz which is bonded together with 7% resins. It is a hardwearing, non-porous material, which is created using a combination of natural minerals and pure acrylic polymer to provide a kitchen or bathroom worktop with many years wear. Quartz is one of the most varied minerals, occurring in different types, colours and forms, each with its own unique appearance. It is found in the ground, in sand, in rocks - in nearly every geological environment around the world. It is a crystal with many facets in its original form, giving it radiance similar to that of diamonds. It provides rich aesthetics coupled with extraordinary strength and durability. Buying a Kitchen
As the Internet becomes ever more prominent in everyday life, rapidly increasing numbers of buyers are realising just how useful it is buying directly from web retailers and skipping the show room smooth talking and sometimes misleading sales assistants eager not to help you, the customer, but instead to earn their commission. Here the web pages are the showroom and the descriptions of our units and services rendered without any of the misleading jargon so often employed by others to confuse the customer. The Internet allows 24 hour viewing and buying, allowing you to view and select the goods you want, when you want. Online shopping from a well-established and respectable company has many benefits over traditional high street shopping; up front you can see detailed information on the products, ask our expert designers' advice on your intended project and read feedback from our many satisfied customers. In this increasingly technological age buying over the Internet is becoming ever safer and ever more popular; given the advantages it gives over old fashioned high street shopping there is simply no reason not to! Even if you remain unconvinced of the merits of online shopping, you can still use the Internet's many resources in order to better educate yourself about what you are buying. Exploit the wealth of websites telling you what to look for and what to avoid in a kitchen; buy with confidence and personally ensure that you never fall for smooth talking again. Here are a few tips to make sure you get the quality kitchen and service you deserve: 1. before using any company always check the credentials by asking for the contact details of previous customers, any reputable company will be more than happy to provide these. 2. Try to establish a single personal contact within a company, someone to hold directly accountable for the installation of your kitchen and who should ideally visit at least once during the installation and once on completion to guarantee your satisfaction. 3. It is always advisable to buy quality kitchen cabinets, even if they cost slightly more, as they ensure the longevity of a kitchen and this proves more cost effective over time. 4. For cabinets try and pick ones that have panels 18/19mm thick and with a solid back. Likewise a sign of quality in a drawer is that it is metal-sided with a solid back. Hardboard cabinets and drawers should be avoided as they will warp over time making them either stick, or need replacing. 5. Do not allow a company's advertising to persuade you of the quality of their products, check their credentials. 6. As mentioned above, research into the kind of kitchen you want so you can see through any sales jargon used. 7. Avoid cold sales companies, a reputable company does not need to try and stimulate interest in their products, the quality of the product does this itself. 8. Always ensure that you get what you want from a kitchen, don't be scared to offer a designer your ideas and suggestions; after all, it is your kitchen. 9. When receiving any part of the kitchen always check for damage before it is installed, this is much quicker than realising after it is installed and having to remove it afterwards. 10. Do not pay the installation fee until you are totally satisfied that the installation is complete. There is nothing worse than trying to chase up items that should have already arrived after you have paid. 11. If the company will not agree to this do not use them, it is better to have to find another company than to find yourself left with a half finished kitchen. 12. Raise any queries or concerns at the time of the installation and do not wait until afterwards when a company may refuse to meet your demands. 13. Arrange the times of deliveries and installation with the fitter to save yourself unexpected surprises. Receiving good quality products and helpful service at a reasonable price is the most important factor to consider when buying a kitchen. Remember that better quality inevitably comes at a higher price, but just a little research will allow you to differentiate between reasonably priced quality products and overpriced substandard products. A company should always put you, the customer first, you are their source of income and your word of mouth can make the difference for them between a good reputation and a bad one. Installing the Kitchen Wall Units
The first step when installing any kitchen unit is always planning. Hopefully the majority of this will occur at the design stage but as the installation actually begins you may realise that you want to add things you hadn't previously considered, decorative kitchen units such as plate or wine racks, extraction fans and the like. Before you begin installing the wall units make sure that you take a minute to sit back and plan ahead; leaving spaces between wall units for those little extra touches that really make a kitchen your own. Tools Required
Marking the Height
The first step is to mark the height of your kitchen wall units, and doing this it is always best to begin by ensuring that your units will eventually hang level. To create a guideline for level hanging, check the floor level and transfer this to the wall by marking a pencil line along where the top of your units will go. The height of the wall units will depend both on the size of your particular units and the size of the room itself. For instance if you are installing a full height housing that fits to the room size then its height will obviously dictate at what height the units will go; they must be level with the top. However, when installing units that do not have a prearranged height a rough guide is to leave a gap of around 500mm from the top of the worktop to the underside of the cabinet, this leaves plenty of room to use the worktops and cabinets at a usable height; no one wants cabinets that they need a stepladder to reach! Preparing for the wall brackets
Now it is time to mark out the wall bracket positions. To get the correct position you need to know exactly where the bracket will connect with the unit, to get this unpack a wall cabinet and hold the bracket under the cabinet's hanger. While doing this measure from the top of the unit to the centre of the fixing holes in the bracket; transfer this to the wall measuring down from the line you drew earlier marking the intended top of the units. Working inwards from the corner and using the spirit level to check everything is level, use vertical lines to transfer the unit sizes to the wall. From this, measure exactly 22mm inwards and place the bracket so that the fixing holes are centred on the horizontal line made earlier to mark the drilling points, mark the position of the holes; do this for each unit. Drilling into the walls
After having marked all the correct positions for the holes, it is time to drill them. Use at least 2 ½" x 10 gauge screws to make sure the brackets are properly secured to the wall. A tip for drilling into walls is to angle the drill slightly downwards; this strengthens the fixing and stops the screws working loose over time. Hanging your kitchen units
Most wall units are hung with fully adjustable hangers allowing for a variety of configurations, normally allowing access to 2 adjustment screws from the front of the units with a pozi screwdriver; this allows for adjustments inwards and upwards, downwards and outwards. When making all of the following adjustments it is important to maintain the levels, both horizontally and vertically, for easier door fitting later on. Firstly, starting with the corner unit, raise it above the brackets, sliding it down until the unit's hangers connect with the bracket. Using a long hand screwdriver, screw the unit back against the wall remembering to ensure the cabinet stays plumb. Adjust the height to the pencil line for the top of the cabinets; you've just hung your first cabinet so now follow the same procedure for the rest. Now it is time to complete the corner units, which for the sake of this guide are going to consist of the common two separate unit form. To fit the corner post attach it to the unit using the half blocks or angle bracket, now hang and level the next wall unit and connect the two in the same manner. Connecting Units
Use clamps, protecting the cabinets with a shielding piece of hardboard off cut, to join the cabinets both top and bottom, always ensuring that the units are flush. Take one screw from each of the hinge back plates and move it to expose the area behind it. Use a 5mm wood bit to drill part way through the cabinet behind the hinge back plate and fix together with the cordless screwdriver using 25mm screws for 15mm units and 30mm screws if you have 18mm units, replace and fix the back plate to hide the fixing. If connecting the units on the closing side of the doors use the above process to make the finish more attractive and hide the screws with plastic caps. If you have kitchen wall units such as those from Hygena or another style that has no hanging brackets then much of the last page will not apply. Instead you need to fix a level batten on the elevation where the wall units are to be fitted; the batten must be level with the bottom of the unit. To prepare the units to be attached to the batten, drill 5mm countersunk holes in the corners of the cabinet. Now lift the unit onto the batten and drill through the corner holes to mark the wall behind the unit. Removing the unit, fully drill the marked holes and fit with plugs before replacing the unit and finally fixing in place (remembering to cap screws). Repeat this process for hanging each unit. One trade tip to save time is that for following units you can skip the process of double drilling by clamping the unit flush top and bottom to the last and drill straight into the wall through the countersunk holes with a masonry drill bit. Extractor Installation
If wanting to install an integrated extractor you must have previously left sufficient space between wall units. Although it is ideal to place an extractor fan so that the outlet goes through an external wall, sometimes this is not possible. This problem can be overcome by installing rectangular section ducting to connect through an adjacent wall to the exterior of the house; a tip to making this ducting as discrete as possible is to lay it over the top of the wall cabinets placed in the corner against the wall, out of sight. Measure the dimensions of the extractor outlet and transfer this to the intended position on the wall, drill through the wall making sure that the ducting you use is the right size for the appliance (which will be in the products instructions). Decorative Kitchen Units
Decorative kitchen units present more of a challenge to fix in place as few have brackets and fitting them would only ruin the decorative effect they were meant for; imagine a wine rack bracketed onto a wall - far from attractive! However, you can still fix these decorative units to the other units in such a way as to hide any join. When fixing them ensure that any fixing points are behind the hinge back plates of the unit and if you need to strengthen the joint use metal angle brackets in the gables at the top of the unit (fixed in the same method as discussed on the previous page). A helpful tip when fitting decorative units between wall units is to install a temporary batten midway on top of the unit, overhanging roughly 300mm each side, to create a stable base for the unit to sit on while you go through the process of fixing it to the other units. Installing Kitchen Base Units
The first step to successfully installing the kitchen base units is to choose the right units for your kitchen. Base units come in many different forms depending on the manufacturer, varying in rigid or flat pack form, construction methods, board thickness and accessories and extras. Tips on things to look for in your base units are adjustable legs (something most normally have, they make fitting easier and the unit less susceptible to water damage), a unit carcass of at least 18mm board thickness and at least 9mm on the back and metal sided drawer boxes with a solid base of 15mm (for structural integrity and strength). While flat pack units have an unenviable reputation, the only real difference between them and the rigid units is that rigid units save on installation time; there is otherwise no major difference. Most manufacturers now build units with carcasses that match the cabinet door finish, which helps create a look of unity in the décor, but if this is not the case with your cabinets and you don't want the corner unit to stand out because of the differing finishes this can be easily remedied with a coordinated end support panel. Most unit carcasses are made from melamine faced chipboard which is susceptible to water ingress, it is vital to take care of the sink base carcass and make sure the sink is properly waterproofed and sealed (for instructions how to do this see Installing the Kitchen Worktop, part 3). Tools needed for base unit installation
Fitting a kitchen should always start in the corner of a room, and much like the process for installing the wall units, start by marking a level line on the wall for the finished height of the units. There are generally two different forms of corner unit, the L-shaped unit usually with a width of 900mm and the conventional corner unit from 900mm to 1200mm; the design of the kitchen will usually dictate which can be used, or if both fit use your own personal preference. Configure the adjustable legs of the unit until it is level with the pencilled line (checking it is plumb and level with the spirit level); do this with each unit and clamp them together to make sure all are flush and level with each other. When clamping use the usual rule of clamping both top and bottom, keeping all edges flush, and make sure you use a piece of hardboard to protect your units from the clamp jaws, as mentioned earlier. As with the wall units you installed earlier, take one screw from each of the hinge back plates and move it to expose the area behind it. Use a 5mm wood bit to drill part way through the cabinet behind the hinge back plate and fix together with the cordless screwdriver using 25mm screws for 15mm units and 30mm screws if you have 18mm units, replace and fix the back plate to hide the fixing. If connecting the units on the closing side of the doors use the above process to make the finish more attractive hide the screws with plastic caps. There will be a service void at the bottom of the unit and where the ends of the unit are not visible it is best to remove this. This will take roughly 80mm from the full cabinet height and will allow you to run cables behind the unit more easily once it is fitted. A service void of 50mm is also located at the back of the units and this unlike the bottom should not be removed as it is essential for scribing to the walls as well as running plumbing and electrics through. So that there are no gaps when the end unit meets the wall the cabinet may need to be scribed to the wall. If this is needed, clamp the unit to the one next to it, but leave it sticking out 30mm in front. Set the compass to 30mm and run the point of the compass down the wall and then pencil along the unit back (the pencil and compass point should remain parallel at all times). Using the pencil line on the unit carcass, cut with a jigsaw and fit the cabinet as instructed above for a finished unit that is perfectly flush to the wall. Once everything is in place and level, the units must be fixed to the walls, but only by alternate gables. Place a 25mm right-angle bracket to the wall and against a gable interior. Mark the bracket hole with a pencil and, remembering the tip from earlier, drill into the wall at a slight downward angle. Use a rawl plug and 50mm screw to fix to the wall and fix the bracket to the gable with the 16mm screw. Fitting appliances to the base units
When fitting a conventional corner unit you must remember that any appliance fitted in it must have space to fully open or function; a dishwasher is no good if you cannot fully open it! Make sure all doors on the unit can be properly opened without interfering with the wall or kitchen door. This may mean that a corner fillet must be manufactured on site, but in a properly planned kitchen this is not normally the case. If an extractor has been fitted it needs to be aligned above the hob to be effective. If fitting integrated appliances (or a freestanding or range cooker) space must be left between units; when fitting the units place a piece of wood the correct size for the appliance between the units, clamping it in place as if it was a unit, to ensure adequate space is left. Installing the Kitchen Worktop
For the purposes of this guide the example worktop that we will be working from will be the laminate worktop as these are by far the most commonly used. Worktops made from the more unusual materials such as stainless steel, granite and corian are fitted by specialists, but this guide will serve as a useful general template to understand what the specialist is doing, many of the techniques used are similar, especially templating. In this guide we will take the installation as consisting of a three sided application with two worktop joints. Tools needed
Pencil (preferably sharp to make all measurements more accurate)
Measuring up to ensure an even overhang
One of the atheistically most important (and visible when done badly) aspects of installing the worktop is to ensure that there is a continuous overhang from the front edge of the cabinets. Although sometimes it is not possible to get a millimetre accurate overhang, try not to deviate by more than 5mm of your target. For example, a 700mm worktop would ideally have an overhang over a 660mm cabinet of 40mm. Firstly choose in which direction the joints will run along the worktop, remembering to ideally avoid proximity to a sink. You must take into account the overhang required at the end of the cabinets of 20mm and that the worktop should be cut to 50mm oversize. Taking into account both these figures add 70mm to the overall cabinet length to be covered. The next action needed is to scribe the worktop to the elevation needed for installation. A compass gives the best result when scribing, especially the sort that has a rigid screw to prevent any movement of the legs. Scribe onto masking tape to make the line both easier to see against a darker colour worktop and against the sawdust that the jigsaw will create. If the worktop is to be fitted up against a wall, first scribe the depth (front to back) remembering to ensure an even overhang along the length. If the overhang is greater than needed because of any unevenness along the wall this is unimportant at this early stage, it can be corrected later. Having set the worktop with an even overhang and scribed the depth, the next step is to compensate for any imperfections in the wall surface. Even if the wall is not perfectly smooth do not allow this to affect the accuracy of your overhang, with a little time and care even the beginner can adjust for this. It is always best to use the method below to gauge how straight the wall is, never take it for granted. It is always best to assume the walls will not be perfectly straight; many have been those who have ignored this, only to end up after much hard work and to their consternation, with a worktop with a slanted overhang. In order to try and maintain that 5mm accuracy mentioned earlier it is best to adjust the size of the worktop, the maximum acceptable gap between wall and worktop should not exceed 3mm. Open up the compasses and measure with the legs set to the widest gap between the wall and the worktop. Then mark this on the worktop (onto a piece of masking tape preferably) by running the compass against the wall, ensuring it is kept parallel at all times. This gives you an accurate depiction of the length of the wall, with all its imperfections, and by smoothing the worktop down to this line with a plane (or a jigsaw in more drastic cases) you can negate the lumps and bumps of the wall; leaving you with a much more accurately laid worktop. Cutting the worktop
The worktop should be cut with a jigsaw that has a down-stroke blade, to prevent any rough edges or damage to the laminate. Cut along the line previously scribed and remove any remaining masking tape. Now place the worktop up to the wall and measure that the overhang is what you had aimed for. Repeat for the back edge of the worktop. Now repeat the whole process twice more for the other two worktops (remembering to cut each 50mm over length), placing each in position to ensure that everything has so far gone to plan. Cutting the worktop joints
Now we come to the slightly more complicated process of cutting the worktop joints that will link and secure the three together. Worktop templates are widely available for a variety of worktop sizes and each comes with detailed instructions that can be extremely helpful for those less than experienced in fitting kitchens. For this guide we will assume the worktops will be in a u-shaped or three-sided set up. When cutting the joints, always cut left to right, starting at the post-formed front edge of the worktop; this will involve turning the worktop upside down for some of the joints but it is essential despite the extra effort. We will be starting with the left hand original worktop, which will require a female mitre cut into it to accept the male mitre of the middle (connecting) worktop. Using the location pins supplied with the worktop template, set for a female mitre and fit it to the face edge of the worktop using a clamp. Before using the jigsaw, make sure cuts are smooth and straight by fitting the relevant collet (normally 30mm diameter) as a guide to the worktop jig. Set the router to around a 10mm depth, making several cuts instead of a single deep one, allowing the blade to do the work rather than using pressure to force the cut. Now cut the worktop bolts (using the template with pins on the jig) in an appropriate position on the underside of the worktop with a depth to accept the bolts and using just two cuts, router the worktop. The next thing to do is to put the worktops in position, checking once again that the overhang is correct. Put an off-cut from one of the worktops on the cabinets of the second connecting worktop. Put the second worktop over the previously mitred top AND the off-cut, checking that now, because it is raised by roughly 30mm above the cabinets, that the overhang is still correct using a combination square; also with the combination square check while doing this that the front edge of the middle worktop aligns with the start of the female mitre from the first worktop. Mark the underside of the middle worktop with your pencil along the edges of the female joint while also marking the positions of the worktop jointing bolts. Make sure this is all done as accurately as possible or you could have difficulty fitting the worktop in position later. Take the worktop back to your working area and mark a line 9mm behind your pencil line (the 9mm is an allowance for the collet once the router is in the template, this works on all standard templates), this is where the template will lie once the location pins are in the male mitre. Bear in mind that this 9mm applies for EVERY cut made with the router. Cut the male mitre into the underside of the worktop, so that it will slot into the female mitre you previously made on the top of the first worktop, and cut out for the worktop bolts. Place the worktop the right way up, locking in position with the first worktop, and then cut the female mitre at the other end of the worktop (where it will join with the final worktop), and finally the male mitre on the third worktop on the underside. You now have the basic worktops ready for the final steps of the process. Fitting the kitchen sink and other inset appliances.
While the worktops are still removable and before sealing the edges you need to cut out holes for any inset appliances such as the sink and sometimes the drainer. With the worktops in the final position and before fitting taps put the sink upside down where it will be installed and mark a line around it with a pencil to give you an outline with which to work. Now mark a line 10mm in from the sink outline (the 10mm is so that the sink will have something to hang from) and mark a line along the underside of the end of each arm of the u-shape in order to cut off the excess we left earlier and arrive at the final worktop length. In order to cut out the shape of the sink, take the worktops over to the two workhorses (for added stability while you work), place a drill hole large enough to fit the jigsaw blade through just inside the line you need to cut, thread the blade through and cut away. To waterproof the edges that you've cut it is a good idea to apply a varnish or PVA adhesive, using the end of a brush to ensure that even the smallest holes in the cut are filled; this is particularly important for the edges around the sink where water could easily soak through an unprotected edge. To minimise any chance of this we also need to waterproof the underside of the sink, (although a sealant is often included with the sink, or even pre-installed), if it is not then a bead of silicone sealant around the edge will do the job. Now the sink is ready to be fitted to the worktop. Chisel out holes for the fixing clips if the sink will be sitting directly onto a cabinet, if it is over a washing machine or similar this is not needed. Finally wipe away any excess sealant and make sure the clips are tight. Repeat this process for any other appliances that need fitting into the worktops. Laminate Edging
Before the laminate edges can be added the worktops must be cut to the final size. Remember that in order to keep the left to right router rule you will need to transfer the following measurements to the face side of the right hand worktop. Referring back to the lines made earlier to get an 20mm overhang measure out an additional 11mm, if you wish for a greater overhang then use the rule of taking 9mm from the desired overhang size and then add the result to the earlier line. Apply the contact adhesive supplied with the worktop to the cut end and then to the edging also supplied with the worktop and allow to become touch dry before applying to the worktop. The laminate will ideally have an overhang on both the top and underside of the worktop and this should be removed with the file, but gently and at a slightly upward angle to ensure that you do not mar the finish of the worktop. Fixing the worktop in place
Now it is time to finally put the worktops in place. Take the first two and put them back in position, now raise the joint between them so there is a gap and insert a bead of silicone to the joint. Gently lower the tops to prevent the silicone from seeping up and onto the worktop surface, wipe off excess sealant. On the underside fit in the worktop bolts and tighten them, whilst being careful to check that the joint stays level on top. When finally in position remove any excess silicone and tap the worktop fully flush with a rubber mallet, or if unavailable a hammer and piece of scrap wood. Lastly to remove the silicone visible on the joint itself, rub some sawdust into it and then remove it with a soft cloth. Kitchen Appliance Installation
The Washing Machine or Integrated Dishwasher
When the dishwasher is being installed it should exactly match the space you have left for it. This is very important because the only space for the integrated washing machine piping is beneath the washing machine itself; you need leave no room behind it, and if you try to install the pipes from the back your washing machine will protrude unattractively from the front of the unit. Integrated washing machines come at a standard width of 600mm and slim line 450mm .The aperture should be tailored to match this. With the integrated washing machine there will be a template to help in marking out the points to fit the appliance doors with the fixings also included with the machine. The kitchen kickboard will need to be cut roughly 10mm directly beneath the washing machine to allow the door space on opening; this is because of the way a dishwasher door opens. Dishwashers will need both electrical and water services and these should end in an adjoining cupboard (with the services and machine hoses clearly separate for easier installation) and with the waste services fitted within the void, unless the washing machine is positioned next to the sink when it can be incorporated into the sinks waste outlet. When getting ready to connect the appliance make sure you feed the water and electrical hoses behind a rear leg of the unit to allow easier access to the services when the washing machine is finally in place and to allow fitting before the furniture plinth is installed. The height of the washing machine can be altered with the adjustable feet but this often provides only minimal differences and sometimes a small platform flush with the unit is required to reach the desired height. Once the correct height has been reached, screw the appliance to the underside of the worktop with the screws provided. Now that the appliance is in place, if it is a dishwasher, it will need a protective waterproof barrier fitted to the underside of the worktop. The washing machine is awkward to fit and as the door opens on side hinges it may be necessary to drill the furniture door hinges to match the door heights of other units; as this is awkward, double check your measurements before drilling to prevent errors. Installing Built in Fridges or Freezers
Follow the above rules and use the adjustable feet (more adjustable than the washing machine so an extra platform will probably not be needed) to get to the correct height before using the pre-drilled holes to screw it in place to the worktop. Fit the doors as per the templates and instructions that come with the appliance. Refrigeration fitted within a housing unit will need ventilation, which can be provided by fitting a ventilator to the plinth. Installing Splash Backs
To install properly you must know the finished height of the worktop as the splash back must be fitted with fixings behind the extractor which must in turn be fitted prior to the cooker; this prevents any damaged to the appliance during installation of the cooker and allows appropriate space in which to work. Installing Range Cookers
Like other freestanding appliances the range cooker requires accurately measured spacing between the units and a space of 5mm extra is a good idea to ensure that the cooker can be easily installed without leaving a large gap to either side. As with all appliances the electrical connection should be made through an adjacent cupboard for easy access. The cooker should always be slightly raised above the worktop by roughly 5mm and if the adjustable legs cannot provide this build a platform to achieve it (ideally in a material that compliments the appliance or kitchen design). Installing Built in Microwaves
Microwaves can be fitted into appliance housings and wall units (depending on model) and will require a build-in kit in addition to the microwave; as usual, the electrical supply should run through the adjacent unit, or the cupboard above or below, for ease of access. Installing Hobs (both gas and electric)
Cut the appropriate sized hole in the worktop and protect the edges before applying the seal provided with the appliance. Now use the clips to fix the hob on the underside so that the gas or electrical connections can be made. If the hob is gas then do NOT install it yourself, call your local Corgi Registered Installer who can be found at http://www.corgi-gas-safety.com/section_gas_law/about_installer_find_installer.asp If the hob is electric the connection must again be through an adjacent unit unless the hob is situated next to a door unit or drawer. Installing American style Freestanding Fridge Freezers
These require a cold water supply and like the electrical supply this should be run through an adjacent cupboard or if not possible as near to the rear wall as positioning allows. The fridge freezer can blend in with the rest of the kitchen by installing a top cupboard above it between two tall end panels; and by using depth matching end panels to make it flush with the other cabinets. Installing Canopy Extractors
Prior to installing the canopy make the cut-out for the extractor and install the flue and electrical connections within the canopy before installing extractor. Install the canopy by lifting onto a temporary batten that will hold it still and level while you fix it in place. Fixing the canopy can be done within the cut-out by drilling four holes to each gable and using the appropriate sized screw. Installing Chimney Style Extractors
It is important to achieve level and straight installation and this can be done by marking the centre line of the hob up the wall to the ceiling and using this as a guide for the flue brackets. The extractor must be sited at a regulatory distance above the hob so make sure this is kept to before transferring the template measurements to the wall (still using your line as a guide). Make all ventilation connections behind the flue, ideally above the ceiling if the joist direction allows this. Once the extractor and flue and fully installed fit the telescopic two-part chimney, sliding up to the ceiling and fixing it to the bracket. The electrical connection for the appliance should be somewhere accessible above the worktop and consist of a fused outlet. A feed from this will terminate behind the flue and connection to the extractor should be made via an appropriate junction box. Installing Island Extractors
Due to the weight of the appliance you may need to reinforce the part of the ceiling to which it will be attached and it should be positioned so that the flue can go directly through the closest external wall. Fix the frame to the ceiling with the supplied screws and fit the extractor before final levelling with the adjustable bolts. Make the electrical connection to the flue with a fused spur hidden from view above worktop height. Now fit the two parts of the flue by screwing it to the frame with the provided screws. Installing Integrated Extractors
Secure the brackets to the rear wall having already left an appropriate gap and hang the extractor from them. Remove the door-fixing frame and screw the extractor to joining unit. Using a template fit the door to the fixing frame. Connect the vent to the exhaust outlet. Make the electrical connection at the rear top of the extractor. |